James Goodey
Climbing Coach
How long have you been climbing for and where did you first start?
I started climbing 13 years ago in a small climbing centre in Amersham, creatively named “The Climb”, with old-school holds and featured resin walls. However, despite the limited facilities, it had a really great vibe and an amazing community- I was instantly hooked. Since then, my passion for climbing has only grown. I have competed in a variety of climbing competitions and even managed to make a couple of podiums. Although I still enjoy competition climbing, my main passion lies with outdoor bouldering, with the Peak District and Fontainebleau being regular destinations at which I have managed to climb up to 7C+ (V10).
What do you love about climbing ?
I love so many things about climbing, but if I had to choose, I’d say one of my favourite aspects is the complexity of climbing movements. I love figuring out the nuances of climbing moves and how to make these movements more efficient by optimising climbing techniques and identifying and working on physical limitations. I have also recently graduated with an MSc in Applied Sport and Exercise Physiology from St Mary's University, with my dissertation investigating short-term recovery methodologies in climbers. This degree has only increased my interest in improving performance for climbers and I am excited to implement my climbing experience as well as my knowledge of sports physiology to help climbers reach their goals.
What other hobbies/activities do you enjoy doing outside of climbing?
Apart from climbing, climbing-related reading and travelling.. for climbing, I really enjoy abstract artwork so spend a bit of time going to art exhibitions and creating my own. I also used to work as a Visual Effects Artist for Film and TV, and still enjoy watching films in my downtime- I usually enjoy something a bit experimental and am a sucker for some bold cinematography.